On the White Fellas Road
Saturday, June 14th, 2008Victoria Laurie; 14/6/08
The windmill stands midway along the Canning Stock Route, spinning lazily in the late afternoon breeze. Beneath its blades, marked “Well 33 Kunawarritji”, a group of Martu women are gathering for a photo. Giggling and grumbling, these Western Desert artists lift skirts to step over bull-rushes growing around the foot of the water tank. Around its side they’ve draped a canvas decorated with yellow, gold, orange and green circles. Sisters Kumpaya Girgirba, Nora Wompi, Bugai Whylouter and Nora Nangubar finished the canvas earlier in the day. Now a young indigenous photographer, Morika Biljabu, is herding them together for a commemorative snapshot. “Look out, snake!” someone shouts and they scatter like startled galahs at a waterhole. It’s a false alarm and everyone settles back into position for Morika to get her shots from the top of a Nissan four-wheel-drive. Remote is too weak a word to describe how far we are from anywhere. Our party of 15 artists and a small crew of non-indigenous helpers has gathered roughly halfway along the Canning Stock Route, the droving trail forged by surveyor Alfred Canning in 1906 to bring cattle down from the Kimberley town of Halls Creek southwest to Wiluna, a daunting 1750 kilometres through sand and salt pans.
